Galapagos Without a Cruise – How to Arrange Everything

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The Galapagos Islands don’t need much of an introduction as they are probably one of the most desirable destinations for travelers. The wildlife and amazing scenery is incredible and you won’t be bored even if you visit it more than once. In fact, I’m actually dying to revisit the Galapagos again!

However, many people are turned away by the high price of the cruises offered by tour companies and those who suffer from seasickness may feel like they should probably skip the Galapagos on their travels around Latin America. On the other hand, there are ways to visit the islands apart from going to Galapagos with a cruise and it doesn’t have to be expensive at all.

Here’s how to arrange your trip to Galapagos without a cruise

Meet Mr Iguana!

Do you want to visit me?


Flights to the Galapagos

First of all let me tell you that if you’re planning on visiting the Galapagos Islands you shouldn’t skip the mainland of Ecuador as it offers plenty of attractions. The only way to get to one of two airports in the Galapagos – Baltra and San Cristobal, is from Guayaquil or Quito (with a layover in Guayaquil), so my best tip would be to start in one of these cities. The best way to score a cheap flight is a last second purchase 2-5 days before your departure. There are ALWAYS flights available and by making a last second purchase at a local travel agency, you might be able to save up to $200. The flights aren’t cheap and I’m not going to lie, the minimum you are going to spend is around $350 so every possible discount makes a difference.


Getting to Puerto Ayora from Baltra Airport

I flew into Baltra Airport so unfortunately I can’t tell you much about transportation to and from San Cristobal. Baltra is a tiny island located right next to Santa Cruz Island with nothing but an airport. No matter if you’re going on a cruise or if you want to stay on the mainland, you need to get to the capital of the Galapagos – Puerto Ayora.

After you pay your statutory $100 fee at the airport for entry to the national park, you can proceed to the minibuses that will take you to the ferry terminal. Both the 10-minute ferry ride and the minibus are $1, but right after you’ll have to pay $10 for transportation to Puerto Ayora.

There are a couple of big bus companies to choose from and the price is set, but if you feel like you don’t want to spend your first hour in the Galapagos on a big bus there are also taxis available for hire. The whole process is very smooth and there is no need to stress about it. The bus can drop you off at your hotel or at the port, whichever you choose.

seals Galapagos

Interacting with friendly locals!


Puerto Ayora

Staying in Puerto Ayora will give you a unique opportunity to interact with the locals and see a town invaded by iguanas and seals. This cute little town has a great nightlife, a lot of local and international restaurants, and plenty of things to do in and around!

I stayed in a lovely guesthouse called Galapagos Best Hostel which was basic but affordable. The Canadian owner and his local wife were both extremely helpful and he gave every new person a tour around town right upon arrival!


Excursions from Puerto Ayora

A lot of travelers come to the Galapagos without a plan so purchasing a 1 or 2-day cruise isn’t a problem. Moreover, booking them in Puerto Ayora and not on the mainland will save you a lot of money.

Tours range from $80 to $150, including lunch and snorkeling or kayaking. The bigger cruise ships usually stop on the bigger islands but smaller day cruises will allow you to visit the tiny uninhabited islands with even more fascinating scenery.

During my excursions to Isla Plazas I had a chance to wander around the wildlife with only 10 other people. Isla Plazas is an amazing place with a surface resembling Mars – red sand and rocks, with plenty of blue footed boobies which are not as easy to spot as one might think.

Isla Plazas

Isla Plazas – very Mars looking place!


How to get to the other islands

If you exhaust all of the options in & around Puerto Ayora you can easily travel to the other islands. The most popular option is Isla Isabela which can easily be reached by taking a motorboat that leaves twice a day. Isabela island is known for having big sea turtles which you can actually swim with.

Yes, locals grab the turtles and ride them, but you shouldn’t be encouraged to do so. Either way it’s definitely once in a lifetime opportunity!

blue footed boobie

Blue Footed Boobie


Budget for Galapagos

It’s hard to say exactly how much one would spend in the Galapagos islands, but including the flight I suggest to have at least $800. The most expensive thing on the islands is food, but it’s still only 70% as expensive as in Europe or the US. If you’re still considering opting for a Galapagos cruise instead of the mainland on a lower budget, do it. Perhaps include a few more days at the end of your trip and take some time to explore the local towns.SDC12671


Other things to know

My most important tip for visiting the Galapagos Islands may sound a bit silly but believe me, you’ll thank me for it later! Use sunscreen everywhere! One would think why am I even mentioning this as normal people usually use sunblock in tropical destinations, but the intensity of the sun in the Galapagos is different than anywhere else in the world.

I actually did use SPF-50 sunblock! I wasn’t sunbathing, I wasn’t even fully exposed to the sun – I was simply walking around town in my t-shirt plus an hour or two of kayaking at Tortuga Bay. It seems like my sunblock didn’t matter as I had severe burns pretty much all over my back and arms!

My skin looked horrifying! Because of my tight schedule I had to spend over 20h on planes with my back stuck to the seat and every time I got up it looked like I left another human on the seat – that’s how much skin I was losing!

Ta da! Blame Galapagos! ;)

Blame Galapagos! 😉


Arrange your travel insurance

For sunburns and other complications it’s useful to have a travel insurance. The easiest and the most reliable travel insurance is World Nomads Travel Insurance. Get it before your trip to avoid unnecessary troubles that might ruin your holidays!

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46 Comments

  1. Jun 12, 2015 / 5:18 am

    Totally agreed. The Galapagos doesn’t have to cost a fortune. I lived and worked there for 2, 5 months for a tour operator and there is definitely a lot to do without having to book a cruise.
    In terms of airport transportation. On San Cristobal, you only catch a taxi into town which costs you 2USD.

  2. Jun 12, 2015 / 7:22 am

    The best way to avoid sunburn is to wear clothes -)

    • Jun 13, 2015 / 12:17 am

      Haha, well… I did 😛

  3. Jun 12, 2015 / 7:37 am

    It’s not only the sun in galapagos it is whole Ecuador! Becaude of the equatorial buldge it is closer to the sun and hence the sun is stronger. I burned my face whilst trekking in Quito on a cloudy day! I ended up buying sunscreen with 80 SPF! Before coming to Ecuador I didn’t even know that sunscreens like that exist! 😉

    • Jun 12, 2015 / 7:47 pm

      Funny thing I didn’t use any in Ecuador and I was fine 0_o

  4. Jun 12, 2015 / 8:28 am

    O matko, jakie cudne foczki <3 A ta na leżaku… Cudo!
    Jadę do Helu w tym roku, to zobaczę te polskie foczki 🙂

    • Jun 12, 2015 / 7:45 pm

      Posadz ktoras na lezak zobaczymy jak sie zachowa 😀

  5. Jun 12, 2015 / 8:31 am

    Totally amazing! I don’t know at what I should look – at you ar at animals on the photos 😀 Absolutely encouraging article 🙂

    • Jun 12, 2015 / 7:44 pm

      Everything! It’s like “where’s Waldo” – you need to look at every detail hehe!

  6. Jun 12, 2015 / 1:44 pm

    I was thinking of going to Galapagos when I was travelling in Ecuador – the costs seemed high but I checked my account and then I thought that it wasn’t that I always dreamt of visiting the place, I dreamt of diving there and that I couldn’t really afford it then.
    I was afraid that if I go, I might not return in the future, so I decided to wait. I’m still waiting, but I’m sure I’ll get there ine day.

    • Jun 12, 2015 / 7:44 pm

      Fingers crossed dear!!

  7. Jun 14, 2015 / 3:41 pm

    I burn even with 100 SPF. So I will be packing it when I finally make it to Galapagos. Thanks so much for this post, I am bookmarking it. I am pretty positive this will be my next BIG trip.

    • Nov 22, 2015 / 6:43 pm

      Just keep your skin covered then! The sun is so strong over there!

  8. Lucy Collyer
    Jun 16, 2015 / 9:33 pm

    Hey, love this post. Very helpful. I’m looking at going next year. Just wondering how much was your accommodation? Was it expensive?

    • Jun 17, 2015 / 1:45 am

      If I remember correctly it was $30 a night.

  9. Lucy Collyer
    Jun 17, 2015 / 9:08 pm

    Oh ok great thanks

  10. Jul 8, 2015 / 1:02 pm

    Thank you for this post. The Galapagos (without a cruise) where on my list for a while. Your article helped to see what’s possible. Oh, and the sun: when I was in Costa Rica it only took 30 minutes between two scuba dives to recolor my back.
    Be safe & happy travels!

    • Jul 8, 2015 / 4:55 pm

      Glad I could help! Hope you’re gonna love the Galapagos! 🙂

  11. Jul 9, 2015 / 4:45 am

    First I’ve heard about booking Galapagos tours yourself while you’re there already. I long to go but the costs have seemed extreme. This sounds like a more authentic adventure too. Thanks!

  12. Aug 23, 2015 / 4:54 pm

    Very useful post! And those pics. So encouraging. I hope to go there one day, so I will go back to this post then.

  13. Aug 24, 2015 / 8:10 pm

    Te foczki i iguana wyglądają bardzo sympatycznie… 😀

    Galapagos brzmi bardzo egzotycznie i kojarzyło mi się zawsze z bardzo niedostępnym miejscem, ale po tym jak opisałaś jak się tam dostać może warto spróbować… tym bardziej że planuję Amerykę Południową za jakiś czas i w tym Ekwador…

    • Aug 24, 2015 / 10:10 pm

      Goraco polecam! Chyba najlepsze miejce w ktorym bylam 🙂

  14. Aug 24, 2015 / 9:04 pm

    I don’t like when polish people write blog in english language… sorry, but we have a very nice polish language 🙂

    • Aug 24, 2015 / 9:37 pm

      I’m sorry Marcin, but since Anna lives abroad and (if you would see her other stories and places visited) her target, I mean, readers, are not only Poles, I don’t understand why couldn’t she write in English? It’s a bit like you would live in Manitoba province in Canada and decide to start a blog about farming in cold Canadian areas. You would like more Canadians to see your stories, but since your routs are Polish, you would persist to write in Polish. Your audience back in Poland would not really be interested in farming in far Canada and your fellows Canadians would not understand what you write, because you write in Polish. You know… vicious cirle!

      I actually think that it’s good that some Poles write in English as people around the world can see that Poles are not only work immigrants, but also enjoy their life, wherever they are. Thank you.

      • Aug 24, 2015 / 10:17 pm

        Thanks Marcin! I also want to add that I speak Polish, but after over a decade spent abroad my written Polish isn’t as good as my English anymore, so I’m pretty sure noone would ever read this blog in Polish 😉

  15. Aug 24, 2015 / 9:12 pm

    Lovely creatures! 🙂 But when I got to the last photo… auuuu, that hurts!

    • Aug 24, 2015 / 10:09 pm

      Yep… it did 🙁 I still have scars 🙁

  16. Aug 25, 2015 / 12:04 am

    I don’t envy the back… but these seals… damn they are so cute!

  17. Aug 25, 2015 / 7:51 am

    You spent total $800? Flight from where?

    • Aug 25, 2015 / 9:50 pm

      Flying from Quito!

  18. Sep 25, 2015 / 10:14 am

    I enjoy reading your post so much! Your tips are valuable indeed! Gonna bookmark it as my reference! Thanks for sharing these great tips with us here

    • Nov 22, 2015 / 6:44 pm

      My pleasure Lisa!

  19. May 1, 2016 / 4:13 pm

    I loved the Galapagos Islands such an interesting place and I loved how the animals were so friendly!

  20. Aug 22, 2016 / 1:44 am

    We are in Ecuador now and planning a last minute visit to Galapagos, do you remember how many days have you been there for?

    • Aug 22, 2016 / 10:58 am

      Hi Suzie! Yes, I spent 5 days in the Galapagos.

  21. Lidia
    Dec 1, 2016 / 3:14 am

    we are just flying to Ecuador this weekend from Panama. Thanks Anna for your short info.
    We’re planning to stay in Quito 3days and then definitely to fly to Galapagos. Did you by any chance , take a ferry to any of these islands? How much time do we need to see all the interesting things on Santa Cruz Island? Is it really only 2 miles from the hotel you stayed, to Darwin Research Center and Tortuga Bay?

    • Dec 1, 2016 / 2:35 pm

      Yes, I took a ferry – it wasn’t an issue. Darwin Research Center was a walking distance away. To get to the Tortuga Bay it’s quite a hike, so don’t forget to bring water as there’s nothing once you enter the national park.

      • Lidia
        Dec 1, 2016 / 9:03 pm

        Thank you Anna,. The entrance to Galapagos Islands is $100 in cash per person, right? They don’t accept credit cards, right?

        • Dec 1, 2016 / 10:26 pm

          Yes it’s $100 and $50 for kids. You just pay it at the airport counter. When I was there they didn’t accept cards as it’s a small airport.

          • Lidia
            Dec 2, 2016 / 3:42 am

            Thanks again. We are heading south tomorrow!

  22. Elizabeth Bartell
    Feb 26, 2017 / 1:36 am

    Anna,
    We are planning a trip in June. I am so excited after reading your posts. I actually booked the airfare first, then started looking at the tours. I thought, oh no, I can’t really afford to go to these islands. But now, I feel like we can definitely explore. The cruises are so expensive and I didn’t think we would be able to see as much of the natural terrain, if we were only cruising. Do you suggest staying on the one island and taking day trips, or moving to different islands? We are planning to be there 6 days.

    • Feb 26, 2017 / 7:34 am

      I’d say plan on doing Isabela island & Santa Cruz as bases and take it from there 🙂

      • Lidia
        Feb 27, 2017 / 4:23 pm

        We visited Galapagos December 2016. We did not use the cruises. It is much cheaper to take a daily trip or 2-3 days trips to different islands, you need 2-3 days for Isabela (they have some motels there). We stayed mostly on Santa Cruz Island in Puerto Ayora. In the Marina, there are every day different trips to different Islands. You can book by yourself when you arrive there! You have to pay $10 the entrance fee per person, when you arrive on every island, besides the $100 entrance fee to the Galapagos Park. All only in cash. You need a cash on the Galapagos everywhere, but they have an MTA in Puerto Aroya. When you arrive to Isabela Island, for example, there are guides there, or you can request a guide before you leave your island, which is the best, so you know for sure, you have a place. The best way is to fly to Baltra ( airport of Santa Cruz Island), visit what you can there and close by Islands , then take a boat to San Cristobal Island, stay 2-3 days and go back to mainland from there.

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